Installation Journal

1. Backing

This picture illustrates backing being installed in the walls for bench-end supports (ledgers as well as support for the wall-mounted heater.

2. Electrical wiring

In these two pictures you can see the electrical supply lines for the wall-mounted light fixture as well as the heater.  The box for a wall heater must be to the side of the heater; not under or behind.  Typically, the wall light is installed above the lower bench at 6” to 8” down from the ceiling.  In the third picture you can see where the 2-gang box is in relation to the wall-heater.

3. Vapor barrier

After wiring, insulation, and backing it is time for the vapor barrier.  Begin at the bottom and work up by overlapping the seams by a few inches.  Later, tape these seams with 3rd party Foil tape for a seamless installation.  Ceiling foil is installed last so it can overlap the foil on the wall.  Also tape all tears, puncture holes, into and around the vent holes, and around all electrical boxes (tape is not included).

4. Paneling

Next step is paneling.  The included written instructions will specify the order in which the walls and ceiling are to be installed:  Ceiling; backwall; sidewalls; frontwalls.  The package comes with a bag of 5d Galvanized nails but we highly recommend you install all paneling using 18-gauge narrow crown Galvanized staples (1-1/2”) or 15/16-gauge Galvanized brad nails (2”).

5. Bench ledgers

The pre-drilled 2x3’s with one angled end are the bench ledgers.  Longer one is typically for the lower bench and the shorter one for the upper bench (in some custom rooms the lower bench ledger may be only the length of the bench).  Each bench end that is supported from the wall gets an ledger;  benches that are in an L typically bolt into wall-to-wall-benches with included carriage bolts through pre-drilled holes.  After the benches have been placed you can cut the corner moldings to fit.

6. Door, trim, heater

The last stage is to install the door, door casing, remaining trim, heater, and heater guard.  The last step is the actual wiring of the heater and testing.  The electrical supply must run inside a non-metallic conduit into the heater or by using exterior-grade “SO”-wire (depending on heater).  The wiring must be done by a licensed electrical contractor for the warranty to remain valid.  After testing sign and date the warranty sheet on the last page of the manual and fax or mail a copy to the factory.

7. Installed sauna

The final picture shows a finished, custom FPC58 pre-cut room.  It was built using Alaskan Yellow Cedar, extra-deep lower bench, deeper-than-standard upper bench, an upgraded Topclass KV stainless, a custom heater guard, and a custom light fixture cover.